Seven · for Sam's Club · Fall 2020
NewStraight 4-Way Stretch Jean
SN1955H3 · Denim · Men's · Technical Development
Volume denim is a game of tolerances. This straight-leg 4-way-stretch jean for Sam's Club runs a 36-point measurement spec across a 28–44 size range, and every sample round is audited against it in fractions of an inch. The second fit, a pre-production sample in black rinse, is shown here exactly as reviewed: target against actual, point by point, with the dispositions that sent it to top of production.
- Style #
- SN1955H3
- Classification
- Jean · Straight
- Fabric
- 4-way stretch denim, new black
- Wash
- Black rinse
- Size range
- Waist 28–44 · 3 inseams
- Base size
- 32 × 32
Garment engineering
One page, every construction decision
The cover sketch is the contract: belt-loop counts and positions, chain-stitch callouts, thread codes (GUN# 8010), rivet and shank specs, felled seams, bartack positions. The supporting pages zoom into what a sewing line actually needs.
Fit review · April 13, 2020
The PP fit audit: 36 points, quarter-inch margins
This is the actual size-chart review from the second fit. Each point of measure has a tolerance; the sample is measured and dispositioned: on spec, within tolerance (keep), or BTS, meaning bring it back to spec before production.
Sample
2nd fit · PP fit, production fabric
Wash
Black rinse
Reviewed by
Fit engineer (Sonia)
Result
Passed → proceed to TOP
PASSED TO TOP, fit with corrections. “Overall fit: much improved!” Must submit 0% shrinkage paper pattern with TOP submit.
- Bring back to spec (BTS) where indicated
- Keep as sample where indicated
- Workmanship OK as sample; follow all trims, packaging and positions in TOP submit
| Dim | Point of measure | Tol ± | Target | Measured | Delta | Disposition |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS001b | Waistband width @ mid WB | ½ | 34½ | 34¾ | +¼ | BTS → correct |
| JPS002b | WB height (cut on length grain) | ⅛ | 1¾ | 1⅞ | +⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS005a | High hip @ 2" below waist seam | ½ | 39 | 38½ | −½ | BTS → correct |
| JPS005a | Low hip 3" above crotch (3-point) | ½ | 42¼ | 42 | −¼ | In tolerance |
| JPS007a | Front rise below WB seam | ¼ | 9 | 9 | 0 | On spec |
| JPS008a | Back rise below WB seam | ¼ | 13½ | 13½ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS009 | Thigh 1" below crotch | ½ | 24½ | 24¾ | +¼ | BTS → correct |
| JPS011b | Knee 14" below crotch | ⅜ | 16 | 16 | 0 | On spec |
| JPS013 | Leg opening | ⅜ | 15 | 15 | 0 | On spec |
| JPS012 | Inseam (32) | ½ | 32 | 32 | 0 | On spec |
| JPS014b | Fly front length to bottom of J-stitch | ¼ | 5⅜ | 5⅜ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS016 | Zipper length | ¼ | 4½ | 4½ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS015 | J-stitch width to outer J-stitch | ⅛ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS017b | Front pocket horizontal from side seam | ¼ | 4½ | 4½ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS018a | Front pocket height vertical below waist | ¼ | 2½ | 2⅜ | −⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS021 | Coin pocket placement from side seam | ⅛ | ⅝ | ½ | −⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS020a | Coin pocket below waist seam | ⅛ | 1 | ⅞ | −⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS019 | Coin pocket width @ top | ¼ | 3¼ | 3⅜ | +⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS025 | Side back yoke height below WB @ SS | ⅛ | 1 | 1 | 0 | On spec |
| JPS024 | CB yoke height below WB @ CB | ¼ | 2¼ | 2¼ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS026 | Back pocket position from CB | ⅛ | 2 | 1⅞ | −⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS027 | Back pocket set below yoke @ CB | ⅛ | 1½ | 1½ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS028a | Back pocket set below yoke @ SS | ⅛/¼ | 1⅞ | 2 | +⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS029a | Back pocket width @ top | ¼ | 6⅝ | 6⅝ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS030a | Back pocket width @ bottom | ¼ | 5¼ | 5¼ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS030a | Back pocket length @ center | ¼ | 6⅝ | 6⅝ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS030a | Back pocket length @ side | ¼ | 5⅝ | 5⅝ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS033a | Bottom hem height | ⅛ | ½ | ½ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS023 | Belt loop length | ⅛ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS022 | Belt loop width | ⅛ | ⅝ | ⅝ | 0 | On spec |
| JPS034b | Front pocket bag length below waist | ¼ | 9¾ | 9⅝ | −⅛ | In tolerance |
| JPS036a | Side cord topstitch length below WB | ¼ | 10 | 10 | 0 | On spec |
| JPS035 | Side back loop set from side seam | ¼ | ½ | ½ | 0 | On spec |
BTS = bring back to spec before production · deltas in inches
Bill of materials
Hardware, thread and trim standards
Pocketing
QTS polytwill 210, black
Pocket bags, felled construction
Zipper
Gunmetal, tape Talon 7156
4½", one additional length per inseam
Shank button
32L × 1, matt black
Code 57DHB-32B-MBLK
Rivet
11mm × 5, matt black
Code 7SEVEN-1BJMBLK
Top stitching
GUN# 8010 black
608 × 1 ply · 6.5–7.5 SPI
Construction
Chain stitch main seams
Felled seam at back rise / back yoke · open side seam, serged & broken-in
Bartack
French seam pocket bags
Bartack + buttonhole per detail sheet
Source documents
The original documents
Both files open exactly as they were issued, in their original format.
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Lena Pant →Coldesina