Coldesina · Summer 2021
Lena Pant
CD21002A · Knit bottoms · Missy · Technical Development
The Lena is a soft knit palazzo with a curved tulip overlap at the front leg. It is beautiful in motion and awkward to specify: the defining lines are curves, so the spec has to invent reliable landmarks. The pack was approved for production within three days of creation, with the graded size chart following in revision 4. The overlap breakpoint was deliberately left “to be determined after fit”, because an honest spec beats a false number.
- Style #
- CD21002A
- Classification
- Pant · non-denim · knit
- Fabric
- Modatex “Venezia” solid, JN1758
- Size range
- XS–XL · base M
- Status
- Approved, production
- POMs
- 20 points · ±¼" typical
Design intent
A silhouette defined by curves
The flat sketch establishes the front slip overlap and the clean elastic waistband; the reference photo is the fit target the sample room graded against.
Points of measure · base size M
Measuring a curve: the 20-point spec
Standard rise/hip/inseam points carry the fit; four custom “S” points pin down the slip overlap by measuring from the side seam and the overlap breakpoint, landmarks that survive the curve. Pocket placement is locked at zero tolerance.
20 points of measure · inches · tol ±
| Dim | Point of measure | Tol ± | M |
|---|---|---|---|
| WJR020 | Waist width circ., relaxed | ¼ | 32 |
| WJR020a | Waist width circ., extended | ¼ | 41 |
| WJR021 | Waistband height | ⅛ | 1¾ |
| WJR022 | Low hip position, from WB | 0 | 8 |
| WJR023 | Low hip width circ. | ¼ | 44 |
| WJR024 | Front rise, top of WB | ¼ | 13 |
| WJR025 | Back rise, top of WB | ¼ | 17 |
| WJR026 | Inseam length | ⅜ | 29 |
| WJR027 | Thigh circ. @ 1" below crotch | ¼ | 29 |
| WJR028 | Knee circ. @ 13" below crotch | ¼ | 31 |
| WJR029 | Leg opening, curve along back leg | ¼ | 21 |
| WJR030 | Leg hem height | ¼ | ¼ |
| S03 | Side panel below WB width, from side seam | ¼ | 6½ |
| S04 | Side panel width, 14" below side seam | ¼ | 6 |
| S01 | Front slip length, from side seam | ¼ | 14 |
| S02 | Front slip height, overlap breakpoint to hem edgeTo be determined after fit | ¼ | TBD |
| PKT-1 | Side pocket placement below WB | 0 | 3 |
| PKT-2 | Side pocket opening | 0 | 5¾ |
| PKT-3 | Side pocket bag width | 0 | 7 |
| PKT-4 | Side pocket bag length | 0 | 8 |
Bill of materials
Eleven lines, production-approved
A lean BOM for a clean garment; the work is in the fabric choice and the branding package.
Fabric
Modatex “Venezia” solid, JN1758
Main body, black
Thread
Standard size/thread quality for knit construction
Construction & topstitch DTM to solid color
Marketing
Printed main label · CD-T-MPLN
1 pc
Marketing
Printed size label · CD-T-SPLN
1 pc
Marketing
Printed care label, black · CD-PSCL
1 pc
Marketing
Main hangtag · CD-MHT
1 pc
Marketing
Printed C/O label on transparent rubber · CD-PSCOLN
1 pc
Source document
The original tech pack
This opens the graded production pack exactly as it was issued, in its original format.
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