SIMKHAI · Men's Pre-Fall 2026
Walt Dad Jean
426-4178-MEN · Denim · Men's · Technical Development
Rigid denim fights back: it shrinks in the wash, stretches under the operator's hands and drifts off spec between every sample round. The Walt was developed from the proven pattern block of style 126-4019-MEN, then corrected round by round: leg opening, rises, yoke geometry and pocket shapes, with the pattern adjusted for wash shrinkage before production. Every correction was photographed, pinned and annotated so the factory could act on it without a translation call.
- Style #
- 426-4178-MEN
- Fabric
- Rigid denim, 70% organic 30% recycled cotton
- Wash
- Garment washed indigo
- Factory
- TRIO
- Size range
- 28–40 · 33" inseam
- Development
- Aug 2025 → May 2026
Design intent
From proven block to new fit
Development started from the PPS pattern of an approved block style, sewn in a rigid indigo quality the mill sourced to counter Candiani, then garment washed. The digital pattern carries the target measurements the factory grades from.
Development timeline
Five rounds against rigid denim
Each round below is the actual dated comment package from the tech pack. Rigid denim moves with every wash, so half the work is telling the pattern from the workmanship.
Aug 27, 2025
Development handoff
First proto cut from the PPS pattern of block style 126-4019-MEN.
- Sewn in rigid indigo quality, Trio sourced to counter Candiani, garment washed
- All sewing construction and fit follow the block style
Oct 17, 2025
Proto review → SMS
ProceedSilhouette tuned and the trim package locked.
- Leg opening reduced −1" circumference, blending to 0 at the knee
- Fly and J-stitch lengthened +¾" with fly buttons respaced; back rise +½"
- Trim color updated to brushed nickel, metal finish TO-134
- Protos were missing the debossed Simkhai logo; placement matched to the block style
Dec 29, 2025
SMS review → PPS
ProceedFit corrections split from workmanship faults: the yoke needed pattern work, the pockets needed operator discipline.
- Back yoke height at side seam +1", revised to 1¾"
- Back yoke seam puckering and curved; tension improved and seam straightened
- Waistband gapping at CB; +¼" added to top of yoke as the height came back to spec
- Front pocket openings and waistband stretched in sewing; workmanship corrected, not the pattern
Mar 19, 2026
PPS review → TOP
ProceedThe wash was pulling the garment about ½" off target across circumferences, so the pattern absorbed the shrinkage.
- Pattern adjusted for wash shrinkage across all circumference points
- Leg opening +¼" at outseam to straighten the curving outseam
- CF J-stitch revised to 7¼"; front pocket width to 4½" with reshaped opening
- Yoke comment from SMS not implemented; re-flagged with measured photos
- Wash highlights at thigh and knee brighter than SMS standard; adjusted for TOP
May 13, 2026
TOP review → bulk
Approved to bulkFinal housekeeping before production: bulk reduced from the belt loops, pressing evened, packaging locked.
- Side seam belt loops +1" from target; reduced for bulk
- Outseams pressed ⅜" further forward at hem than waistband; pressing evened
- Bulk shipped on correct hangers, UPC sticker top right of poly bag
Annotated corrections
Fit comments a factory can't misread
Every correction is pinned on the sample, measured and annotated directly on the photo: what is wrong, by how much, and what to do about it. These are the actual comment images from the pack.
Sample room
On the body, in the wash
Bill of materials
Fabric, hardware and branding
Self
Rigid denim, Trio countered Candiani quality
ISK63411 · 70% organic 30% post-consumer recycled cotton · indigo
Wash
Garment wash
New wash standard issued to the factory
Pocketing
Cotton twill SI-63-WE
100% cotton, natural
Hardware
Simkhai tack buttons JA-S159
Brushed nickel TO-134 · 27L at CF, 24L × 4 on the button fly
Hardware
14L Simkhai logo tack rivets BR-S067 × 6
Coin pocket corners and front scoop pockets, brushed nickel
Thread
A&E D-Core, Tex 105/60
Golden brown allover topstitching · 8–9 SPI
Branding
Debossed Simkhai logo, 1⅜" × ⅞"
Center of wearer's back right pocket
Branding
Leather denim patch BEL-7931
2½" from outseam at wearer's back right waistband
Labels
Main woven label, size/COO, care label
Plus security seal, hangtags and disclaimer tag per label sheet
Graded specification
Graded across ten waist sizes
The production spec runs 27 points of measure across waists 28 through 40. Circumferences grade with the size; pocket geometry steps in groups so the proportions hold.
27 points of measure · inches · tol ±
| Dim | Point of measure | Tol ± | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Waist along edge | ½ | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37½ | 39 | 40½ |
| B | Waist at seam | ½ | 30½ | 31½ | 32½ | 33½ | 34½ | 35½ | 36½ | 38 | 39½ | 41 |
| C | High hip, 3" below WB seam (3-point) | ½ | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42½ | 44 | 45½ |
| D | Low hip, 6" below WB seam (3-point) | ½ | 37½ | 38½ | 39½ | 40½ | 41½ | 42½ | 43½ | 45 | 46½ | 48 |
| E | Thigh, 1" down from crotch | ¼ | 23½ | 24 | 24½ | 25 | 25½ | 26 | 26½ | 27¼ | 28 | 28¾ |
| F | Knee, 14" down from crotch | ¼ | 18½ | 19 | 19½ | 20 | 20½ | 21 | 21½ | 22¼ | 23 | 23¾ |
| G | Calf, 20" down from crotch | ¼ | 16¾ | 17¼ | 17¾ | 18¼ | 18¾ | 19¼ | 19¾ | 20½ | 21¼ | 22 |
| H | Leg opening | ¼ | 14½ | 15 | 15½ | 16 | 16½ | 17 | 17½ | 18¼ | 19 | 19¾ |
| I | Front rise to WB seam | ⅛ | 9¾ | 10 | 10¼ | 10½ | 10¾ | 11 | 11¼ | 11½ | 11¾ | 12 |
| J | Back rise to WB seam | ⅛ | 13¾ | 14 | 14¼ | 14½ | 14¾ | 15 | 15¼ | 15½ | 15¾ | 16 |
| K | Inseam | ¼ | 33 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 33 |
| L | Waistband height | 0 | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ |
| M | Hem finish and width | 0 | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ | ⅜ |
| N | J-stitch length | ¼ | 7 | 7 | 7¼ | 7¼ | 7¼ | 7½ | 7½ | 7¾ | 7¾ | 7¾ |
| O | Fly J-stitch width to outer stitch | 0 | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ | 1½ |
| P | Back yoke height at CB | ⅛ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ |
| Q | Back yoke height at SS | ⅛ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1¾ |
| R | Front pocket width along waist seam | ⅛ | 4¼ | 4¼ | 4¼ | 4½ | 4½ | 4¾ | 4¾ | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| S | Front pocket length along SS | ⅛ | 2½ | 2½ | 2½ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 3 | 3 | 3¼ | 3¼ | 3¼ |
| T | Back pocket width at opening | ⅛ | 6¼ | 6¼ | 6¼ | 6½ | 6½ | 6¾ | 6¾ | 7 | 7 | 7 |
| U | Back pocket width at bottom | ⅛ | 5¼ | 5¼ | 5¼ | 5½ | 5½ | 5¾ | 5¾ | 6 | 6 | 6 |
| V | Back pocket height at center | ⅛ | 6½ | 6½ | 6½ | 6¾ | 6¾ | 7 | 7 | 7¼ | 7¼ | 7¼ |
| W | Back pocket height at sides | ⅛ | 5¼ | 5¼ | 5¼ | 5½ | 5½ | 5¾ | 5¾ | 6 | 6 | 6 |
| X | Back pocket from CB seam | ⅛ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1⅝ | 1¾ | 1¾ | 1⅞ | 1⅞ | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Y | Coin pocket width | ⅛ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 2¾ | 3 | 3 | 3¼ | 3¼ | 3½ | 3½ | 3½ |
| Z | Coin pocket distance from SS | ⅛ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ |
| AA | Coin pocket below waist seam | ⅛ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ | ¾ |
* base size; grading radiates from 32
Source document
The original tech pack
This opens the working Excel file exactly as it was issued, in its original format.
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